@3dprinting I'm working on the LED strip power supply for my printer enclosure.

I've been pondering the layout of these parts for a while. Last night I got the power entry units, and I spent the whole day today coming up with this. It's nowhere near done, but it shows the general layout. I'll split the blue part into two halves suitable for printing somehow.

I should have bought a power supply with a power plug integrated.

@3dprinting I put the eyes on long, thin stalks and added a machine screw for weight. Hopefully, when the printer starts the cabinet vibrating, they eyes will jiggle. We'll see.

@3dprinting I amuse myself.

The precut acrylic pieces came with holes for door handles, but I didn't like the handles they suggested. So I made these.

Note that there's still no printer in this alleged printer enclosure.

@3dprinting One more layer. I test fit one door and one window. Each door is held on by 4 magnets and has another four keeping it closed. Each window is held on by 8. The windows have just the right amount of magnetic glomp (technical term). The door is kind of wobbly but it stays closed.

I have errands for the rest of the day, so the lid will have to wait.

@3dprinting One more layer. The cord at the back left is for the addressible LED strip in the lid. It was a pain to fish through. It is a power cord with the ends snipped off; I'll crimp on some JST SL connectors later.

I've been looking at the CAD drawing for so long that it doesn't even look like a new thing.

@3dprinting The bad news is that the two parts that broke are the two longest-printing parts in the whole enclosure. Reprinting all three parts is about 15 hours. Fortunately, I started last night...

@3dprinting I spent yesterday designing a new joint. I ended up using a bigger mortise/tenon plus three dowel pins. (I really love dowel pins.) The pins are 5x50mm and 3x30mm. The screw is M3x10.

I printed these two test pieces to verify fit. They are plenty rigid, and I have to pry them apart with a screwdriver. This is definitely overengineered. (I really love overengineering things.)

@3dprinting After all the progress I've made on the Black Lack Stack Hack recently, I was due for a setback. I carelessly picked this assembly up by one end to show it to someone, and it cracked under its own weight. When it hit the floor, the opposite joint cracked too.

They were wobbly anyway, so I should design something better.

Edit: two more photos.

@3dprinting One more layer. This is the surface the printer will sit upon.

This is by far the most rigid IKEA furniture I've ever handled. So that validates the steel rod idea.

But the back right rod is not parallel to the others now. I must have torqued it somehow. The rest of the assembly seems square. Not worrying yet.

@3dprinting Stupid Fastener Tricks, Episode 88.

To hide the screws on the power distribution unit, I printed some plastic covers that are held in place with magnets.

This brings the total magnet count in this enclosure to 120, I think. If I put a shelf of Gridfinity slots in front, that'll be another 48 magnets.

@3dprinting Here's the next layer. At this point, I should stop and do some more design. I want to attach several things to the underside of the next table, and I'm not sure they'll all fit. Nor how to attach them.

- a rackmount power distribution unit in back
- steel sheet storage in front
- a Gridfinity shelf in front
- LED power supply and cabling
- Raspberry Pi or mini PC for Octoprint

@3dprinting I have finally started assembling the Black LACK Stack Hack (printer enclosure). I am nothing if not slow^Wdeliberate.

I found out that the "plugs" that go between the hex nuts and the table corners (the red parts) are too tight to slide over the threaded rods. I tried forcing one on with the flywheel wrench, but that got old. So I'm printing new plugs now.

(The flywheel wrench works very well.)

@3dprinting Stupid Fastener Tricks, Episode 87.

These dowel pins I got on Amazon have internal threads. I had no idea why, but I got 'em anyway. Turns out they're pretty useful for inserting/removing them into deep holes and making 100% hidden hinge pins.

@3dprinting The cable passes through the foot under the leg to another MATE-N-LOK connector inside the enclosure.

You can see ribs on the upper bracket. Those house the dowel pins I'm using as bushings for the slider. I posted photos of the prototype of that upthread on May 9th.

@3dprinting It will go outside the enclosure on the back side, as shown here.

@3dprinting Here's the power supply mount I came up with. The upper bracket slides up, and the power supply can be removed without tools. That way I can take the printer to the bench without a lot of hassle.

The AMP MATE-N-LOK connector is rated for 70 amps! The power supply is rated for 10.

@3dprinting I adjusted a few dimensions, and the second try fits nicely. There's just barely room enough (I hope) to bend the wires around and connect them into the jack.

This is the same receptacle Prusa uses for their enclosure's optional quick release. So if I ever move my printer into one of those, it will be ready to plug in. https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/psu-cable-quick-release-for-original-prusa-enclosure-mk4/

@3dprinting It took the entire day, like 12 hours, just to model this power supply cover. It doesn't look that hard, but it took a long time to collapse the infinite possibilities down to this one. It's on the printer now; I'll see if it fits in an hour.